The HABITUAL Spring 2012 line is nearly finished, and we’ve just selected a model for the new lookbook shoot. It takes a bit of vision and a lot of work to find the girl that will embody the look of the brand for a whole season, and that’s why model casting is a crucial part of the fashion business. In the case of HABITUAL, we don’t hire tons of different models each year for multiple campaigns and runway shows, we do only a couple of shoots per year, and we have to be very particular to pick the model that best reflects the style and feel of the line.

The first step to casting a model is figuring out basic requirements. In general, we have a specific size that we know works best for our samples. We can’t select someone who is too thin because they have to show off the shape of the denim. Of course, the girl you want has to be LA-based and available on the shoot date.

We also have to keep in mind the budget. Every model has a different day rate. In general, new faces are less expensive than the seasoned girls. Sometimes having a great photographer can get you a more experienced model for a lower fee. You also have to consider usage rights – in this case, we are using the shots for the lookbook, our own website, PR, and potentially even some advertising. Broader usage rights translate into a bigger fee.

Next you have to think about the look of the model – who is the HABITUAL girl, and what look are we going for with this season’s line? For the spring shoot, we were looking for a brunette with longer hair and a bit of edge and mystery to her. Even though we are based in LA, we were not really looking for the bubbly blonde Southern California girl. Our celeb inspirations included the Natalie Portman, Emmanuelle Chriqui and, Zooey Deschanel style of brunette. She’s not the reality star, but someone who is genuinely talented and has some substance and character.

You might have also worked with a model previously. We hired someone as a window model at an event earlier in the year, we were really impressed with her work ethic, and so we called her back to the casting for the shoot.

Based on these requirements, we’ll narrow it down and look at the portfolios of a few dozen girls from different modeling agencies. In the old days, we used to have to tell the agency what we were looking for, and then they would messenger over physical portfolios of the girls they thought were the best fit. Now, thanks to the web, we have access to thousands of portfolios instantly. We’ll end up reaching out to three or four LA agencies with whom we have relationships and invite less than ten girls to the live casting.

During the actual casting, it’s not all about the pretty face. First and foremost the model has to look great in the denim and the denim needs to look great on her. She has to know how to move, how to work the camera, and how to show off the best features of a particular look. There is a skill to modeling, and that experience and skill is why why some models are better to work with and command a higher fee.

Beyond aesthetics and skill, perhaps one of the most important considerations is attitude. Even if a girl takes amazing pictures, you have to spend a whole day or more with this person. You need someone that can handle switching looks all day long, without complaining. Bad attitudes can upset the dynamic on location and even hurt the quality of the images. In casting, we try to ask the models basic questions to see if they are engaging, funny, interesting, and animated.

Finally, we like them to know a bit about denim. Do they wear denim? Do they know the difference between a crop, a skinny, and a trouser? What are their favorite brands? We hope this will help them appreciate the clothes and believe in the product and really “sell it” during the shoot.

For Spring 2012, we selected Angelika from Photogenics Agency. We knew we picked the right model when she came in for a second time and we found out she has a tattoo of a Maltese Cross – exactly the same shape as the HABITUAL Glory pocket. We could not even believe the coincidence.

You already know where the HABITUAL “Glory” pocket comes from, so we thought you might like to see how they are made. It’s a multi-step process as a series of skilled workers cut the cross out, attach it to lining, sew it onto a pocket, and finally fix it to the leg of the pair of jeans. Because every Glory pocket is hand-made, each one is unique to your pair of jeans. Along with the classic Glory pocket you see in this video, other versions of the design, such as distressed or studded Glory pockets, can require additional steps and even more hands-on craftmanship.

Have a look inside the LA factory to see how we take ordinary cloth and turn it into the Maltese cross pattern that decorates the back pocket of many HABITUAL denim designs.

If you are familiar with the HABITUAL brand, or even poked through a couple pairs at a local boutique, chances are you have noticed the large cross that appears on the back pocket of many of the pieces in the line. Ever since its inception, HABITUAL has used a cross as a logo and a frequent back pocket emblem. Specifically, we use a slightly modified version of the Maltese cross that is often called the ‘cross pattée’ or ‘iron cross’.

Actual pattern used to make a HABITUAL "Glory" pocket

The Maltese cross, also known in Italy as the Amalfi cross, is recognized as the symbol of a group of Christian warriors known as the Knights of Malta. The symbol was originally used as a symbol of protection and a badge of honor, but it has gone on to become a symbol for the European nation of Malta. The symbol even appears on the one and two Euro cent coins. The cross has a v shaped element on the end of each arm, which creates eight individual points, said to represent 8 points of courage for the knights:

Loyalty
Piety
Generosity
Bravery
Glory and Honor
Contempt of Death
Helpfulness to the poor and the sick
Respect for the church

Left to Right: a Greek cross, a Maltese cross, and a Cross Pattee

While the “Glory” pocket takes it’s name from one of these points of courage, the shape of the glory pocket is more accurately a cross pattée, which comes from the French for “paw”. The cross pattée has arms which are narrow at the centre, and flare out to become broader at the perimeter.

Both the Maltese cross and cross pattée evolved from a very well known and widely used symbol, the Greek cross. Perhaps the most basic cross you can find, the defining characteristic of the Greek cross is four arms of equal length. It looks like a plus “+” sign, and is also used as the international symbol for nursing, medicine, and the Red Cross. The Greek cross got its name because of its repeated use on ancient greek artifacts, including coins, statues, and other artworks. The cross was also used by early Greek Orthodox Christians as a religious symbol, and the cross still appears on the modern day Greek flag. A similar cross shape is evidenced in many artifacts from pre-columbian america.

Ancient Greek Coins, a pre-columbian cross, a Maltese Warrior

We love the history behind the HABITUAL ‘Glory’ pocket and all the values it symbolizes. But most importantly we think it makes quite a statement on our jeans! Below are photos of some of the customized ‘Glory’ pockets we have done in previous collections.