Following earlier snoozy shows in Europe, all-out spectacles—like Rick Owens’ fierce step dancers and the postmodern Eden at Dior—reaffirmed Paris as the godmother of giddy drama and fun in fashion this season. Not that we didn’t love London edginess, the sense of tradition in Milan or of course NYC’s chic pragmatism, but visions such as Karl Lagerfeld’s tongue-in-cheek art gallery pushed cultural boundaries with fully articulated fantasies in just the way fashion should.
At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz went after our own hearts with an homage to lamé. “Stonewashed, vaporized, slashed, and broken,” according to Style.com, this crafted treatment of the material itself shares our approach to creating the ultimate washes and makes for clothes that are similarly a joy to wear.
Rick Owens also showed a collection that proved dynamic in real life, opting to show how by replacing models with teams of dancers whose defiant sneers, stomping feet and combative movements made for the most talked-about event of the week.
Image via Refinery29
Raf Simons continued on his path of expertly delivering Dior into the present. The collection, from its space-age cutouts to metallic ball gowns, fused the alien with the classic just as the dripping Garden of Eden setting melded lush natural vines and artificial neon flora.
Image via V Magazine
For Chanel, Lagerfeld’s neo-sincere ode to art came in the form of the white-walled space and oversize artworks that lent the affect of an amusement park, while the clothes themselves carried through a similar playful interpretation of an art student’s wardrobe.
Image via The Sartorialist
In the most bittersweet show of the season, Marc Jacobs took his final bow at Louis Vuitton after 16 years, but not without inky feather headresses atop pants and slinky dresses that conjured flapper showgirls dipped in 90s grunge. Bravo.
Image via WWD